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Nicaragua: The “New” Costa Rica or the “Old Country”?
Posted by mla0100 in Best Bull Testicles ever, International, Italian, Nicaraguan Food, Spanish Food on February 5th, 2012
Nicaragua Cathedral
Momotombo Volcano
Tropical Paradise
Map of Nicaragua
Nicaragua, “The Land of Lakes and Volcanoes,” is in the midst of a renaissance. It is a place of peace and tranquility despite a recent history rocked by earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, hurricanes and revolution. The residents, here in the largest and safest Central American nation, are equally resilient and are among the warmest, most genuine and friendliest people on the planet. When it comes to cuisine and culture, Nicaragua’s got personality to spare, all at rock-bottom prices. The country will reward travelers with tropical rainforests, top surfing beaches, active volcanoes and jaw-dropping vistas over one of the most beautiful lakes in the world - Lake Nicaragua.
Nicaragua or, as some insist, the “new Costa Rica” is still in its’ early stages of discovery. Do not expect high-rise hotels or luxury malls but your overall experience will certainly compensate for that. You will, however, find two beautiful colonial cities in Nicaragua, Granada and León, founded by Spaniards in the early 1500s. They are notable for their Spanish Colonial architecture, gorgeous Baroque churches, crayon-colored townhouses and lively squares lined with vendors selling handmade wares and delicious street-food. Nicaraguan food has a hearty simplicity: a local fish or steak with tostones (medallions of fried plantains) and the ubiquitous gallo pinto (red beans and rice), washed down with a Toña beer. Everything here is fresh and holds up well to simple preparation.
La Pergola Restaurant
Nica Breakfast
Our fooditinerary begins immediately after touching down at the Augusto Sandino International Airport in Managua. We have a typical Nicaraguan breakfast at the La Pergola Restaurant @ The Best Western Las Mercedes Hotel near the airport, which consist of eggs, cheese, gallo pinto and sweet plantains, served with bread and corn tortillas. Our breakfast also includes a nacatamal, a Nicaraguan tamale made with corn flour stuffed with pork, mashed potatoes and/or veggies, tied in a plantain leaf and boiled. Fresh juices (frescos) and strong Nicaraguan coffee completes our Nica breakfast.
COST: Free, included in the cost of the room… which is typical of most hotels & hostels in Nicaragua
FOOD: The food was plentiful and prepared well. The choices were ample and the fresh fruits abundant
SERVICE: Typically, service in Nicaragua is slow and deliberate… it’s just the Nica way. Leave the US attitude @ home
DÉCOR: Located near the pool with indoor, terrace and/or garden seating
Nica Street-Food
El Güegüense - Diriamba
We visit the town of Diriamba for the Festival of San Sebastian and the Güegüense (whah-when-say). “El Güegüense o Macho Ratón” is a UNESCO award-winning satirical drama, well known throughout Nicaragua. It is performed each year from January 17th-27th and is marked by fireworks, dancing, music and extreme celebration deep into the night for 10 consecutive days and nights. We seize the opportunity to sample Nica street-food. The food is good & cheap: Indio Viejo (Old Indian) - shredded beef (or pork) in a stew thickened with masa tastes like a beef-flavored grits dish. Other good street food includes maduro, which is sweet fried plantains and Tostones - fried plantain chips. Most of these dishes are served with agua de sapo, (literally, “toad water”), lemonade made with brown sugar and ginger and sold in plastic bags.
We also snack during the daylong festivities at El Cipitío Pupusa’s Salvadoreñas. Pupusas are similar to corn tortillas, only thicker and stuffed with cheese, beans or meat and served with tomato salsa and curtido (a type of cabbage relish). The pupusa originated in El Salvador (¡shout-out to Geraldina & Diany!) but, it is also quite popular in neighboring Nicaragua… and crazy good! While walking to the city of Dolores during the procession, we finally sit and eat Pollo Asada (grilled chicken), tostones, ensalada & Toña(s) at one of the many makeshift, roadside cafés.
Later that night, we dine at Restaurant Las Villas, one of the premier restaurants in Diriamba, located in the center of the celebration! We order the Mixed Meat Plate with Steak, Chicken & Pork, French Fries, Tostones, Ensalada and lots & lots of Flor de Caña, which is renowned as one of the best rums in Latin America. We struggle to find any alcohol on the drinks menu, as the bar is being drunk dry during the festivities!
COST: $$
FOOD: The food was plentiful and cheap… prob, better if served any other time than during Nica’s largest celebration
SERVICE: Was erratic but everyone in Diriamba was celebrating and we were told many waitresses failed to show
DÉCOR: Traditional colonial décor. Dark, heavy wooden furniture with ceiling fans & tile floors. An upstairs with a balcony overlooking the insanity…
Our Cabaña/Hammocks @ Casa Canada
Island Transportation - Golf Carts & Bicycles
We leave the hectic atmosphere of Diriamba and retreat to one of the Caribbean’s forgotten tropical paradises, the Corn Islands -where the tourism and hospitality industry is in its infancy! Here, you can still get a room for less than $10 in a family run Hospedaje and buy an excellent dinner from street-vendors for around $3.00. We check into Casa Canada for the duration, where we have a continental (full) breakfast each morning at the Casa Canada Restaurant and enjoy Rondón, one night for dinner. “Run Down” is the quintessential coastal seafood stew, which contains sweet potato, cassava, taro and potatoes, along with whatever seafood products are available, plus plantains and breadfruit braised in coconut cream and spices - wicked good!
During our stay, we sample all of the island street-food, including the famous Coconut bread, Patí or “Pattíes” (an empanada filled with spiced meat), Pico (a type of fruit tart) and Spice cookies. These delicacies can be found in restaurants or sold out the windows of the local comedors (dining rooms), throughout the island. We dined at one of these “dining rooms” at Comedor Maris, where hostess and cook Danette asked, “What do you want”? What we had was lobster and fish in butter & garlic, shrimp with Caribbean sauce; served with tostones, fries and ensalada. It was reminiscent of “dinner at Grandmas” and served on Danette’s porch - memorable. We also dine at Arenas Restaurant during our stay (located right on Picnic Beach) and have the island’s notorious “Caribbean Viagra” (Ceviche), Surf & Turf, Pasta, Seafood Soup & Toña.
La Princesa de la Isla
Island Bungalows
But the real highlight of our stay on Big Corn Island was the amazing meal we had at La Princesa de la Isla. The Italian tasting-menu was outstanding (and I had just spent the month prior in Italy/Europe). We were immediately served an amuse bouché - a flaky pastry topped with Neufchatel cheese and prosciutto. Our first course was Spaghetti Marinara topped with Parmesan followed by prob, the best tasting Pollo al Rosmarino that I’ve EVER tasted. We also ordered, the Lobster w/butter & lemon and the Snapper a la Princesa that was so good that we dredged the delicious drippings up w/our bread (Owner/Hostess Constanza called this process: “little-shoes”). Next, came the Italian Spice Cake and Flor de Caña… a LOT of Flor de Caña! We closed down the Restaurant with our hosts indulging us, by patiently answering all of our questions. Before walking our wonderful Canadian friends (¡Shout out to Tom, Carol & Erin!) and ourselves to our cab, they brought out more Flor de Caña - gratis. All in all, a truly wonderful experience! So much so, that we returned the next night (a little hung-over) for Spaghetti Bolognese, pizza, Banana Split Dessert and conversation.
COST: $$ You can not imagine what we were served (and drank) for around $33/person USD
FOOD: Mi piace davvero! My Italian is bad but the food here is exceptional. It felt like I was back in Italy
SERVICE: I can’t even begin to tell you about the service, w/o mentioning how Constanza & Allesandro make you feel like a part of their extended family before even being seated
DÉCOR: A quaint, little resort run by a gracious Italian family… who, absolutely loves what they do (& it shows). Located on the most picturesque end of the western coast - idyllic
http://www.laprincesadelaisla.com/
ENCUENTROS Restaurant
Restaurant, Bar & Club
We are in the beautiful city of Granada, walking the streets and taking in the sights when we stumble upon ENCUENTROS Restaurant, Bar & Club located in a magnificently restored Colonial casa located in the city center. Opened in March of 2011, by a Dutch grad (reared in Sydney) and his father, it provides an eclectic dining experience, very different from the normal Nica fare. Upscale ambiance, cool tunes, romantic lighting and plush foliage throughout… provides a European bistro feel. The menu is a hodge-podge of mezzes (small plates) and mains, inspired by the travels of the owners. We are immediately served bread & olive tapenade and order the National drink of Nicaragua, the Macuá - a cocktail made with white rum, lemon and guava juice - stellar. We order several, along with the Steak chimichurri, Tuna steak, mashed potatoes and roasted vegetables. Both steaks were cooked properly and the vegetables were fresh.
COST: $$$ May be cost prohibitive for many locals
FOOD: The menu is ambitious and not the standard fare for restaurants in Granada
SERVICE: Typically slow and uneven but accommodating when present
DÉCOR: One of the most visually stunning restaurants in Nicaragua. A beautifully restored colonial mansion & the Saturday night pool parties are legendary
The Centro Cultural Antiguo Mercado Viejo
La Cazuela de Don Nacho
We take the “Chicken Bus” to Masaya, also known as the “ciudad de las flores” (city of the flowers) and the “Capital of Nicaraguan folklore”. The Centro Cultural Antiguo Mercado Viejo has been thriving here for centuries and its role remains the same today: the trade of goods and the exhibition of art and culture. There are a large variety of items that are available to visitors at this market: leather products, clothing, ceramic products, shoes, hammocks, pots and candle holders just to name a few. After a long day of shopping for souvenirs, we stop to have lunch at La Cazuela de Don Nacho, where we order the “Dinner for Five” for the two of us, that includes: Filete Mignon, Filete de Pollo, Churrasco steak, Fried Fish, Arroz, Tostones, Ensalada, Fried Plantains, Beans & Fruit Punch. No doggie bag required…
COST: $$
FOOD: They serve Nicaraguan “Comida típica” (typical food) at this pleasant market-place eatery, that is usually buzzing with diners
SERVICE: Service was amazingly efficient for a Nica restaurant
DÉCOR: The restaurant is a “palapa” (open-sided dwelling with a thatched roof) located in the market, common construction in Nicaragua
La Perla Hotel
Cerro Negro
We finish our Nicaraguan adventures in León by staying at the Le Perla Hotel where we dine on a full Nicaraguan breakfast and visit the Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption, the Rubén Darío Museum and Volcano board Cerro Negro. Cerro Negro is the youngest and most active volcano in Central America. The live volcano, which erupted as recently as 1999, has become a hot spot for extreme boarders. As if riding down a 2,200 ft Volcano wasn’t enough to get the adrenaline flowing; the chance that it may erupt before you get down just adds a little extra juice.
How do you prep for this you might ask? Well, we have a lunch of Bull’s Testicles - otherwise known as Criadillas al Vino, along with a few other tapas: Almejas Especiales/Clams, Plato de Chorizo y Queso, Filete de Robalo Ajillo, Punta de Filete Jalapeña, Hummus & a few Victoria Maestro beers at Meson Real. It is remarkably tasty… as are all of the other tapas!
Rubén Darío Museo
Volcano Boarding
For what may be our last meal… we dine at Restaurante El Mediterráneo on Avocado w/Shrimp, King’s Casserole w/Lobster, Fish & Shrimp; Pizza, Lasagna, Fruit Parfait, Digestivo & more Flor de Caña. And the Volcano boarding? We strap on the prison-orange jumpsuits and goggles and I record the 3rd fastest time of the day, a respectable 56 kilometers per hour - over 35 mph going down a 2,200 ft volcanic slope with a 41˚ vertical drop. Downside was that I bought it at the bottom of the run and my right leg and arm ended up looking like hamburger meat. Cross that off the bucket-list, which btw, is ranked #2 on CNN’s Thrill seekers bucket list: 50 experiences to try before you die… possibly right before you die!
COST: $$
FOOD: All of the food we experienced was very good, authentic and well prepared
SERVICE: The service @ Meson Real was fun and interactive. At Restaurante El Mediterráneo it was painstakingly slow
DÉCOR: Spanish colonial with lush tropical plants, ceiling fans and tile floors
http://www.laperlaleon.com/ http://www.bigfootnicaragua.com/volcanoboarding.html
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Restaurante-Meson-Real/288553257845634
City Streets
Nica Beaches
As for the “new” Costa Rica moniker, the Nicaraguan tourist board slogan reads, “A country with heart,” which draws attention toward its warm-hearted people, its cultural offerings and its unspoiled natural beauty… things that have been there all along. Visitors who travel to Nicaragua tend to be the ones who like to go off the beaten path - adventure travelers, not tourists. Now is the time to go to Nicaragua, before it becomes overdeveloped like its neighbor to the south. It’s the slight imperfections and lack of infrastructure, which makes this country so unique. Nicaragua will never be the next Costa Rica, nor does it need to be, it needs to remain true to its’ roots. Go to Nicaragua and drink it in…
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Venice: Half Fairy Tale / Half Tourist Trap
Posted by mla0100 in International, Italy, Venice, Italy on January 25th, 2012
Piazza San Marco
The Canals of Venice
The Rialto Bridge
Doge's Palace
Venice is one of the few cities in the world that can truly be described as unique. It has monuments of rare splendor and an aquatic setting that makes it a tourist attraction… like no other city in the entire world. Venice offers something for everyone: grand views, galleries, museums and beautiful Venetian Gothic style palaces - these are just a few of the sights you will see while floating down the Grand Canal in a vaporetto (water-taxi) or gondola. But if you’ve ever had the misfortune of visiting Venice in the summer, it can be madding with the hordes of “day-trippers” who outnumber the pigeons in St. Marks Square. Venice in the spring or fall is a different story altogether. It is very hard indeed, not fall for the beauty, mystery and flavors of the world’s most romantic city.
Harry Pouring a Bellini
Bellini's @ Harry's Bar
Whether I arrive by plane, boat or train; my first stop on my Venice fooditinerary is always Harry’s Bar for the obligatory Bellini. Some people will go once and call it a “tourist-trap” but it is full of locales & regulars (as well as international celebrities), has great atmosphere & drinks and is a great place to people watch. Harry’s is synonymous with Venice and is the most famous bar in Europe. Although the Restaurant has lost much of it’s luster recently, they still make the Harry’s Bar pierini - the world’s best pan-seared ham & cheese sandwich. To give you an idea just how popular Harry’s really is: each day’s menu includes the exchange rate for nine different currencies. It just wouldn’t be a trip to Venice, without visiting Harry’s!
COST: €€€€ A Bellini will run you about $23 USD
FOOD: The birthplace of the drink, everyone says Harry’s Bar has the best Bellini’s = ⅓ White-peach puree + ⅔ chilled Italian Prosecco (sparkling wine). I would recommend eating elsewhere
SERVICE: Harry’s Bar is very popular and it’s packed just about any day of the week. Note: No shorts allowed
DÉCOR: It is not overly smart, but it is stylish: from the comfortable banquettes, to the butterscotch wood trim, from the subtle yellow linens w/the Harry’s Bar monogram embellishing everything…
Ristorante da Mario alla Fava
Risotto w/Cuttle-fish Ink
Located in the heart of old town near the Rialto Bridge, Ristorante da Mario alla Fava encourages the procurement of the very freshest seafood and vegetables, due to its close proximity to the Mercato di Rialto (Rialto Market). In general, the food is always fresh but the service is better during the off-season without the crowds of tourists and the prices are amazingly low for Venice standards. Make yourself at home with a generous plate of seafood pasta and wine by the litre. This classic osteria seems miles from tourist attractions and the 21st century, yet the Gallerie dell’Accademia and Palazzo Grassi are minutes away.
COST: €€€
FOOD: The menu is classic Venetian - Black Squid Ink Risotto, classic pasta dishes, meat and fish dishes you would expect from an establishment of this lineage, all at very decent prices
SERVICE: Always busy, often with a queue outside but swift service from lifelong, uniformed waiters
DÉCOR: Squeeze in among the motley collection of fisherman’s lamps, ceramic pitchers, watercolours, and the locals who made them…
http://www.ristorantemarioallafava.it/2/
Venice makes you a believer in fairy tales. However, Venice’s popularity as a major worldwide tourist destination has caused several problems, including the fact that the city can be overcrowded at some points of the year. It is regarded by some as a tourist trap, but by most as a living treasure and a “can’t-miss” destination. It is filled with palaces and art, fine shopping and excellent food. Relax in Piazza San Marco, visit the basilicas, drink a bellini at Harry’s Bar and wander the alleyways and bridges. Consider an off-season trip to have more of the city to yourself.
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“Eat (Pizza), Pray, Love” - Naples
Posted by jak in International, Italian, Naples on November 30th, 2011
Cupola Santa Caterina
Gulf of Naples
Umberto Galleria
Santa Chiara Church
Naples is one of Italy’s most vibrant cities. It lies on the coast, south of Rome and is the most important city in southern Italy. Naples is beautifully situated on the slopes of the hills enclosing the Bay of Naples. It is known for its rich history, art, culture, architecture, music and gastronomy. This Neapolitan city is internationally famous for its cuisine and draws culinary influences from the numerous cultures which have inhabited it over the course of its history, including the Greeks, Spanish and French. The city is synonymous with pizza and is traditionally credited as: The Birthplace of the modern Pizza.
Neapolitan-styled Pizza
Julia @ Da Michele’s
We began our fooditinerary at L’Antica Pizzeria Da Michele where Julia Roberts dines in the movie: “Eat, Pray, Love”. Pizza perfection relies on traditional ingredients of a Neapolitan pizza, which have been strictly regulated by law, since 2004. The complicated calibration of a trace of yeast, a 10 to 14-hour fermentation at room temperature and extra-loose dough. Ninety seconds in a wood-fueled brick oven with a dome temperature of 905° F renders the pies - blistered and honeycombed and crust that’s tender and pillowy inside, w/charring on its bottom and “leopard-spotting” (spotted w/char) along the rim. The toppings are scant but important: San Marzano tomatoes, fresh-smoked buffalo mozzarella, fresh basil, sea salt and a quality extra virgin olive oil. This is ground zero for pizza and Da Michele serves only two types of pizza: the “Marinara” (sauce and crust) and the “Margherita” (sauce, cheese, basil and crust). No additional toppings should be used in making the pizza that could alter its world famous genuineness and taste.
FI TIP - The San Marzano tomato is the most famous tomatoes for making “sauce” (for pizza or pasta) and is preferred by Gourmet Chefs and Italians kitchens all over the world! It is the also the only tomato sauce allowed on a “Vera Pizza Napoletana” (true Neapolitan pizza). Also, Da Michele is closed on Sundays… we move on!
COST: € Five Euros gets you a pizza and a large bottle of mineral water within four minutes - the Original Fast Food
FOOD: For the pizza lover, a trip to L’Antica Pizzeria Da Michele in Naples is the ultimate pilgrimage. It’s about simplicity, quality and tradition - add it to your bucket-list
SERVICE: At almost all times there is a wait for a table; get a number at the door and hang out outside until it’s called…
DÉCOR: As hard-core as it gets; Naples’ most recognized pizzeria takes the no-frills ethos to extremes. Think nostalgia, it’s dingy and old-fashioned… the very same tables from the 1800’s
Pizzeria Brandi
Pizza since 1780
Antica Pizzeria Brandi was opened in 1780, but didn’t become world-famous for more than a century. Popular legend holds that it was on this very spot, in June of 1889, in honor of a visit by the first King and Queen of a newly unified Italy, the owner Raffaele Esposito concocted a patriotic pizza modeled after the colors in the country’s new flag: white - mozzarella di bufala, red - tomato sauce, and green - basil… the Margherita! Naples’ most famous—and heavily touristed—pizzeria is so proud of its traditions that rather than hide the kitchen, Brandi prominently displays the oven near the front entrance. The pies emerge from the oven in mere minutes, a feint smoke still wafting off a crust that is mottled with char when the pizza makes it to your table. The pizza must have a flavorful crust that is charred both top & bottom, crisp with a chewy crumb and a significant “cornicione” (the poofy-lip around the edge), which is essential to pizza greatness. We ordered the Bruschetta and the white (pizza bianca) pizza w/clams. Pizzeria Brandi succeeds in being good and authentic in spite of the streams of tourists now mixed in along with the locals. The pizza is superb.
COST: € €9 to €12 It’s half of the price of a similar pie in NYC… how does that even happen?
FOOD: So good, it can only be described as Pizza Porn…
SERVICE: Get there early (instantly exposing yourself as a tourist) and sit at 6 outside tables or in the two level restaurant
DÉCOR: Blue and white tiled wood-fired oven and gleaming marble counters where skilled “pizzaioli” ply their craft
One of the beautiful things about a visit to Naples is that there’s so much good food to eat. You will, I’m quite sure, have no trouble finding an excellent – perhaps even pizza-gasm worthy – pizzeria in Naples, whether you come armed with a list of addresses like the ones above or not.
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Beautiful Barcelona
Posted by jak in Barcelona, International, Spain, Spanish Food on October 11th, 2011
Sagrada Família
La Boqueria Market
Gaudí Architecture
Costa Brava
Fruits & Veggies
Candy & Nuts Galore
Proprietor Juanito Bayen
Crew @ Bar Pinotxo
By far, the best way for visitors to sample the offerings of the market is to visit one of the many cafés and restaurants located inside. We head directly to the legendary bar and bastion of Catalan cooking - Bar Pinotxo. It is the most famous of all the eateries inside the marketplace and is constantly buzzing, from six in the morning until it closes sometime around three in the afternoon. The food in this 100+ year-old establishment is spectacular, but it’s Bar Pinotxo’s amiable owner that keeps diners coming back for more. There is no need to ask for a menu, just ask Proprietor Juanito Bayen or “Pinotxo” (pee-no-cho), who will be dressed in a freshly pressed vest and bow tie, “what’s fresh”?
Taller de Tapas
Vicky Cristina Barcelona
Sunday night and we head to Barceloneta, right on the Mediterranean, for seafood right off the boats at Can Ros. Naturally we start with the Sangria, which was “highly fortified” with Brandy. For our cold starters, we chose tomato bread and Gazpacho soup w/Anchovies. Our hot-starters are Salt Cod fritters. Our entrees are Seafood Paella and Zarzuela w/monkfish, hake, mussels, langostinos and prawns - ridiculously good. By this time, we are prob, the loudest group in the restaurant and have made friends with some Scandinavians at the next table. Yes, it’s the sangria talking.
Paella "Parellada"
Restaurant 7 Portes
Chocolat con churros
Churreria J.Balcells
Spaniards are night owls. The typical Spaniard does not eat dinner until at least 9 o’clock in the evening and probably does not get to bed until close to midnight. On the weekends, on holidays and during the summer months; it wouldn’t be unusual for a Spanish family to turn in round 3 or 4 o’clock in the morning. So, after the late-night dinner, Spaniards continue their socializing by walking from café to tavern or frequent a nightclub or disco-pub. The Spanish walk more than any other people in Europe, which can work up quite the appetite. So, the final stop on the way home from an evening of fun might be to a churreria or churro stand. Churreria J.Balcells is famous in Barcelona for its chocolat con churros (pastry of fried dough, cinnamon & sugar) dipped in a large cup of Spanish chocolat. Joy and I are locos for chocolate and bona fide ‘Chocoholics’ so, this became a ritual during our stay in Barcelona… this is a dish you don’t want to miss!
Our "Tapalatas"
bar restaurant la pepita
On our last night in Barcelona, we decide to try to venture out away from all of the reputable old guard establishments and frequent a tapas bar that is receiving rave reviews. We have heard that Bar Restaurant La Pepita on Career Còrsega is serving original “tongue & cheek” tapas… which has people queuing in line, for close to an hour, just to get a stool at the bar. This style of dining is all about freshness and the fewer barriers between you and the people cooking your food the better. We ordered from the “Tapalatas menu” - Barreja d’olives & tomato bread, marinated mussels w/sweet potato, foie micuit w/fig vinaigrette & fennel, cod fish esqueixada w/tomatoes & black olives and lamb “pinch
The Beautiful Sofia
Tongue & Cheek Tapas
moruno” w/hummus. Not the normal tapas… but each well done - subtle, yet sublime. For our entrees, we order their signature dish the “Pepita”, a Catalonian twist on a “sandwich”. I opt for the beef Pepita w/french fries (home fries), my brother chooses the Blood sausage Pepita w/fresh caramelized apple and my sisters select the Salmon Pepita w/dill & walnut vinaigrette and the “McPepita” a play on the American Quarter Pounder - w/mustard, pickle & a special sauce. Of course, we are drinking Cava (Fermí Bohigas) from the Anoia valley of Catalunya. Their wine list is small but adequate and owner & hostess Sofia is friendly and gracious… bringing drink after drink to our table and explaining each dish to us personally. We are served a Moscatel Alicante (desert wine, gratis) with the house special “Pepita chocolate”. A desert consisting of chocolate, olive oil, sugar, cinnamon, flour and egg white served w/shortbread - incredibly light and delicious. In addition, we have the Coffee Pannacotta w/Rum, which tastes like tiramisu in liquid-form. We stupidly finish (we thought) with a tasty Irish coffee; then Sofia brought out gin & tonics for a Digestifs… again for free. Without a doubt, our best meal and most pleasant night out in Barcelona!
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Dining Out in “Big D”
Posted by Chalin' in Destination, U.S. on September 8th, 2011
"D-Town"
Cowboy Cheerleaders
County Courthouse
"Jerry's World"
Dallas, Texas (D-Town, “Big D”, The Metroplex) the city that gave us “America’s Team,” Dallas the TV series, Barney the purple dinosaur, the Dallas Cowboy Cheerleaders and every guy with Internet knows… Debbie does Dallas. But when I do Dallas, I want a great steak, Texas chili, BBQ, The Mansion’s tortilla soup, a hombre-sized burrito, Tex-Mex, brisket, chicken-fried steak (aka “CFS”) & cream gravy, Shiner Bock beer and a top-shelve margarita. Yes, Dallas has cowboys boots, country music and the Two-step but it is also more European than other TX cities and offers diners a multitude of sensational dining options.
Sonny Bryant's/West End
Beef Brisket & Pork Ribs
My fooditinerary is a combination of two separate visits to D-Town. I visit Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse on both occasions for their BBQ and leave with two very different results. The original (on Inwood Road) is still the best and has been serving Texas BBQ there, since 1958. The brisket was lean and moist and had a mild smoky taste, despite the lack of a visible smoke ring. The pulled pork sandwiches (sliced or chopped) are Texas-sized and bargain priced @ $4.79. Try it with their enormous, crispy onion-rings and their savory BBQ sauce: a tomato-based sauce (served warm) that was neither too spicy nor too sweet but had a definite Texas “twang” (sour finish). Sonny Bryan’s is probably the best-known BBQ joint in Dallas but many of the franchises are inconsistent. So, try to stick to the “original”.
COST: $ Why eat a frozen “beef” patty at a chain, when you can get a great BBQ sandwich for the same price
FOOD: It’s Texas: Rope a Steer, Start a Fire & Let the Magic Happen! Order the Chopped Brisket Sandwich; the meat needs no condiments
SERVICE: The original Sonny Bryan’s is an order-at-the-counter spot with often-hard-to-come-by seating
DÉCOR: You will have to order your BBQ “to go” and sit outside at a picnic table or sit in one of those ridiculous elementary school desks and look like a douche…
Rosewood Crescent Hotel
Nobu Dallas
Black Cod with Miso
Dinner is at the renowned Nobu. Japanese Sushi-chef extraordinaire Nobu Matsuhisa is a celebrity chef known for his fusion cuisine blending traditional Japanese dishes with South American ingredients. His Dallas restaurant is located just off the Great Hall in the lobby of The Rosewood Crescent Hotel. The dining room is designed with river stonewalls, a backlit onyx sushi bar and birch tree accents; reminiscent of the NYC location he and Robert De Niro own. Patrizia, my Swiss dining companion and I both start with the Seared Scallops w/Jalapeño Salsa followed by the superb Nobu creation, Broiled Alaskan Black Cod w/Miso his “signature dish.” We finish with the Tempura & Bento Box Dessert - Warm melting Chocolate Cake, Goma Tuille & Green Tea Ice Cream. Who cares if I have to defer my car insurance payment… it was sublime!
COST: $$$$ May need to bring the Amex Black for the “Omakase” (Chef’s-choice multi-course tasting menu) & the Veuve Clicquot Brut, “Yellow Label” We ordered by the glass…
FOOD: New style Japanese cuisine fuses tradition and perfection with a Latin American temperament
SERVICE: This place was slammed and the service was consistent - considering
DÉCOR: Evokes the beauty of the Japanese countryside with a touch of Southern charm. A favorite hangout of the Rich & Famous in Big-D
http://www.noburestaurants.com/dallas/experience/introduction/
Freebirds World Burrito
Not the "Super Monster"
Freebirds World Burrito is a regional chain (CA, TX & OK) of build your own burritos known for “way more choices” and for offering college students/customers (aka “Freebird Fanatics”) the liberty to custom build the food the way You want it. They are known for their “Monster & Super-Monster” burritos made with hormone-free, grass-fed beef, all-natural pork shoulder, free-range chicken, hand-cut peppers & veggies, plus homemade salsas and ‘guac’. Don’t forget to add the proprietary pico de gallo and infamous “Death Sauce.” There is a huge list of Freebird “freebies” that can be added at no extra cost to customize your meal. Follow that up with Pot Brownies or Chocolate Chip Cookies that are baked fresh daily. They are also know for giving the first 10 customers, at new store openings, free burritos for a year… causing students to camp out weeks in advance of openings!
COST: $ Accepts cash, University debit cards, food stamps, musical instruments, jewelry or motorcycle parts
FOOD: California-style Mission burritos, which customers customize by choosing their size and fillings from a selection of meats, cheeses, beans, vegetables and sauces
SERVICE: Cafeteria-style. Freebirds encourages their customers to “recycle” their burritos foil wrappers by turning them into artwork
DÉCOR: Easy Rider meets CBGB - Rock & Roll decor with motorcycle memorabilia…
http://www.freebirds.com/dallas.htm
Pappadeauxs' Seafood
Fried Crawfish
Pappadeaux Seafood Kitchen is a casual dining chain that specializes in seafood and New Orleans-style cuisine. Pappadeaux Seafood Kitchen also features such Louisiana-style delicacies as Andouille and Boudin sausages, gumbo, Po’ Boy sandwiches, Fricassee stew and crawfish. Each meal begins with a freshly baked loaf of homemade bread that’s brought warm to diners’ tables. We are in the mood for some Cajun specialties and start with Crawfish Étouffée served over Dirty rice. Not the most authentic but I don’t often have the opportunity to have crawfish. Next we have the Fried Crawfish Platter with fries and a cup of Andouille Sausage & Seafood Gumbo… C’est si bon!
COST: $$
FOOD: No, it’s not authentic but it’s prepared from New Orleans recipes. Great Drinks menu too
SERVICE: Usually young & friendly waitresses - many speak Spanish
DÉCOR: Rustic, fish-camp decor
French Room Decor
Dégustation Menu
In town for the Warrior Dash, so we pamper ourselves (before abusing our bodies) with an evening out at The French Room @ The Adolphus. Year in and year out, voted the Best & Most Romantic restaurant in Texas; we dress to the 9’s and take in the French Room… Dallas’s Grande Dame. We are served Chef Marcos Segovia’s dégustation menu: Smoked Ugly Tomato Bisque, Foie Gras, Potato Gnocchi; Panama Bay Shrimp Ravioli, Baby Bok Choy, Fennel Truffle Cream Sauce; Beef Tenderloin, Crisp Prince Edward Island Oysters, Creamy Wild Mushrooms; 4 Year-aged Gouda, Date, Mango Jam and Mango Almond Macaroon, Coconut Ginger Sorbet with White Chocolate Anglaise. Magnificent French cuisine served under an 18-foot domed ceiling adorned with frescoes, hand-blown crystal chandeliers and gilded sconces. The hotel’s crown jewel, the French Room offers a rare dining experience where ambience and cuisine combine to create the ultimate romantic, epicurean experience.
COST: $$$$ Mucho Deniro
FOOD: Heather, my date & Warrior Dash partner stated, “This is best tasting meat that I have ever put into my mouth”. Her words…
SERVICE: Flawless, Maître d’Hôtel Jim Donohue came over during the Intermezzo and wished us “Good Luck to Mitch & CJ (our alter-egos) in the Warrior Dash,” who knew?
DÉCOR: One of the Country’s most visually stunning venues. The New York Times writes “a Louis XV fantasy on the prairie… indisputably the most striking and sumptuous restaurant in Dallas.”
http://www.hoteladolphus.com/dining/the-french-room?src=ppc_yahoobing_frenchroom
"The Castle"
"The Blue Knight"
Next on our agenda is Medieval Times, a Medieval-themed dinner theater and one of the city’s most intriguing dining spots. The venue is a combination of a medieval banquet and competitive show of jostling between Knights. We upgrade to the “Royalty Package” and are given a color-coded crown and get to pose for pics with the contestants. The color of the crown, instructs the visitor on what color knight to cheer for. Guests are encouraged (i.e. plied w/alcohol) to cheer for their knight and the actual show can get incredibly loud. Patrons are served a four-course banquet of tomato bisque, garlic bread, roasted chicken and potato, pastries and spare ribs. The knights perform in a two-hour competition of jostling, hand-to-hand combat, swordsmanship and displays of horsemanship. If enough alcohol is consumed and you’re with the right ‘wench’, this can be a great evening of entertainment… we had a blast!!
COST: $$$ Drank a little too much “Mead” (alcohol), bill was a princely sum. Luckily this Castle accepted plastic and online discount coupons
FOOD: A 4-course feast fit for a King(?) sans Knife & fork… I used a dagger. Oh yeah, Medieval Times is about so much more than the food
SERVICE: Wenches in peasant-blouses. Seriously, does it get any better than that - what say ye?
DÉCOR: Spanish Medieval… it’s the only 11th Century Castle in the University Park neighborhood
http://www.medievaltimes.com/dallas.aspx
The Mansion on Turtle Creek
The Mansion Restaurant
Italianate Styled Architecture
Its race day and we are in need of “Warrior Fuel”… we decide to have The Brunch at Mansion on Turtle Creek. Best decision of the day! Perhaps the best-known restaurant in Dallas and long-hailed as the best for fine dining, The Mansion Restaurant has been delighting guests since 1980. Brunch is served on the Terrace which offers al fresco fireside dining and lounging under a canopy of majestic oak trees, it’s absolutely beautiful. Most people require approximately 8 to 16 ounces of fluids 2 hours before the race… so; we order the Mimosas and Bellini’s. I will also need plenty of additional liquids (body wt. x 25% = ounces) to endure the rigors of the Dash and I order their Mansion Tortilla Soup their “signature dish” - outstanding. Realizing the need to Carb-load to increase my glycogen store - the Grilled Kobe Shell Steak, Chimichuri, Steak Fries and Watercress Salad fits the bill perfectly. We now won’t have time for the 30-minute pre-race snack so, we order the Mansion Candy Bar Brownie, Peanut Croquant, Chocolate Mousse, Lime-Coconut Sorbet… this should keep us from starting the race hungry! We waddle to the starting line…
COST: $$$$ Not your typical Sunday Brunch
FOOD: Heather had the Soft Scrambled Egg, house made gravlax, crème fraîche, American caviar, Buttermilk Biscuits, gravy, two eggs, grilled jalapeño sausage, shredded hash browns and vanilla shortcake, sous vide strawberries with strawberry sorbet. Did I mention they have blue-ribbon Mimosas and Bellinis…
SERVICE: Service is subtle but impeccable and the royal treatment keeps this Dallas institution at the top of its’ game
DÉCOR: The Italian Renaissance Hotel & Restaurant is luxury personified with marble floors, inlaid wood ceilings and stained-glass windows
http://www.mansiononturtlecreek.com/dine1.cfm
Dallas has witnessed a surge of new innovative restaurants in the region, boasting greater variety in cuisine types and cooking styles along with a number of unique gastronomic concepts and this has caused a stir on the local dining scene and significantly added to the region’s culinary diversity. It’s a great town for dining out. BTW, -H and I DOMINATED the Warrior Dash - standard.
Next challenge, I am currently doing Survivor: Nicaragua - Peace Corp style…
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Hilton Head… come away with me
Posted by mla0100 in Mac & Cheese, SC, Seafood on April 6th, 2011
Golfing Mecca
Shoe-shaped Island
Meandering Bike Paths
Harbour Town LH
The Old South meets the Atlantic seaboard in Hilton Head Island, South Carolina. Hilton Head (HH), a shoe-shaped island, is the second largest barrier island on the Eastern Seaboard. This resort destination has world-class golf & tennis, superior shopping, endless recreational indulgences for lovers of land & sea and award-winning dining. Local seafood is the specialty with sweet creek shrimp, boiled in beer in summer and fresh oysters roasted on open pits in the cool months. Expect to pay resort prices for dining, especially during the tourist season. Budget options include delicious chopped pork barbecue sandwiches, Southern fried chicken and Low Country favorites like shrimp & grits, seafood gumbo, shrimp purloo and “Frogmore Stew” (Low-country seafood boil).
Jellyfish Chandeliers
Chef Irvine w/Alicia
We begin our fooditinerary with our favorite new HH restaurant, Robert Irvine’s eat!, which promotes itself as “specializing in great American dishes… with a twist!” It provides locals and vacationers alike with an welcome alternative to the overwhelming number of seafood restaurants in the area. The menu is divided into tapas, greens & such, entrees, sides and sweets. Basically anything can be a tapa, as long as it’s served as a “small-plate” and eat! offers a mouth-watering array of selections that our table could not resist ordering. Tapas are an excellent way to sample many different items within one meal, allow diners to tailor the portions exactly to their appetites and best of all, they’re the ideal food to share with friends. The fact that there’s such a diversity of dishes, made narrowing down our choices difficult. The solution was obvious, we pretty much ordered everything from the menu… standard. Alicia started w/the baked brie w/herb flat bread;
Chef Irvine w/Leah
Kids in the Kitchen
Leah (our resident vegetarian), ordered the fried green tomatoes, feta cheese & balsamic; our kids had the prime beef sliders, mac & (Harvarti) cheese, house-made chips and paneed blue crab cakes. I, somehow, managed to have the balance of the tapas menu placed in front of me. She crab bisque, mussels escabeche, bacon and shallot compote topped oysters and foie gras w/herb blini - stellar. We finished with the Chocolate Ridiculous Cake decorated by the kids, who were allowed to go into the kitchen to customize their desserts specifically to their liking! I’m not even going to mention the sweet potato bread pudding w/tabasco ice cream, which tasted like hot cinnamon… oh wait, I just did.
PRICE: $$ An absolute bargain, six of us had an obscene amount of food & a great time for around $185 w/tip
FOOD: After you are up to your ears in fried seafood & hushpuppies def, hit up eat! for a welcome alternative and interactive dining experience… exchanging bites with others at your table
SERVICE: I mentioned the food blog to the maître d’ and Chef Irvine came to our table for a photo-op, fell in love w/our kids and allowed them into his kitchen. He spent prob, 20 minutes @ our table… very gracious of him
DÉCOR: The restaurant is extremely dark but well appointed by J. Banks Design; w/Red Hand-Blown Chandeliers by local artisan Cyndi Levy - think Dale Chihuly (Bellagio) inspired glassworks
Signe's Heaven Bound Café
Heavenly Breakfast
We begin the next day, by visiting a HH favorite, Signe’s Heaven Bound Bakery & Café for Breakfast/Brunch. Signe Gardo is a “Connecticut Yankee” who finds herself inexplicably transported to the Hilton Head bakery that bears her name. Since 1972, Signe has been supplying freshly baked goods, serving breakfast and lunch and designing wedding cakes for both HH Islanders’ and island visitors. We start with their signature coffee that is freshly blended & roasted and made strong! My sisters start with Shrimp Frittatas, which is an Italian omelet that has the ingredients mixed w/the eggs (rather than folded-in) and is firmer & fluffier because it’s cooked, very slowly, over low heat. It is filled with veggies & cheese and is cooked to perfection. I have the Breakfast Polenta, an classic Italian dish w/a Southern twist - served w/sautéed sweet corn, red and green peppers, scallions & Vermont white-cheddar. Breakfast is served with a side of fresh fruit and toasted 8-grain bread & fresh lemonade or Earl Grey tea. Don’t forget to take away some of Signe’s bakery items, they even make a picnic basket for the beach.
PRICE: $ You will pay just as much at Denny’s, IHOP or Waffle House… why would anyone do that
FOOD: Why just eat… when you can eat well - diverse food menu w/some INCREDIBLE baked goods
SERVICE: Place your order at the counter - most of the girls bake, not waitress
DÉCOR: Appears that Signe caught a sale on plastic patio furniture @ ‘Wally-World’… but whatever it takes to keeps the prices down
The Sea Shack
The Shack Attack
The Sea Shack is one of HH’s best places to enjoy fresh, affordable seafood. During the peak summer months, the wait can be long and arduous… thanks to Rachael Ray’s putting Sea Shack on $40 a Day. Their motto is, “Not Fancy, Just Good” and the atmosphere is very causal. Seafood: fried, grilled or blackened with generous portions (at reasonable prices), is their forte. My son, had their signature “Shack Attack” combo, which includes crab-cakes, fish, shrimp, oysters and scallops served with hush puppies and two sides. On this occasion, he had the sweet potato fries and Mac & cheese. I started with the she crab soup and had a soft-shelled crab sandwich with fries and Cole slaw. It’s a great place for families due to the low cost but the wait can be brutal on the kids.
PRICE: $$ Feed the ‘fam’ for about half as much as at the other HH seafood restaurants
FOOD: It’s seafood prepared fried, grilled or blackened - although the quality seems to be fading
SERVICE: Could use a dose of Southern hospitality
DÉCOR: The Sea Shack… appears to have been… ransacked
Hudson’s Deck Bar
Seafood Specialties
J.B. Hudson put his name on the door of the old Hudson’s Oyster Factory back in the 1920’s when it was a seafood processing plant. In 1967, he started serving seafood right off of the boats and has been doing so, ever since. Hudson’s on the Docks offers seafood specialties, along with four to six blackboard specials each day — the freshest catch from local fishermen. We arrive early and proceed to the Deck Bar and have a few drinks and enjoy the live music. We are seated promptly and start with appetizers; She Crab Soup, which I found to be too thick for my tastes and the New England Clam Chowder which was much more palatable. The Neptune’s Seafood Platter came next and included oysters, scallops, shrimp, crabmeat croquette, and seasonal fish – fried for me, grilled for my son with obscene amounts of food.
PRICE: $$$ Represents the median pricing for a HH seafood restaurant
FOOD: No one person at our table was inspired by anything that we were served. I may try again during the off-season
SERVICE: Most of the servers were college students and were very friendly and fun
DÉCOR: Dated nautical theme with a great atmosphere out on the deck… live music and a beautiful sunset
http://www.hudsonsonthedocks.com/
Pad Thai w/Shrimp
In addition to serving classic Bangkok cuisine, Ruan Thai features most of the delicate flavors of Northern Thailand. The restaurant covers all the Thai curries with the Pa Nang, Red, Green and Yellow. The mildest and most Indian of the curries was the Mussaman curry, a recipe that originated in Thailand’s southern peninsula and features chicken & potatoes, heavily scented with cumin. We begin with the steamed New Zealand Mussels w/lemon grass & cilantro and the Combination Plate, which includes 2 skewers of satay, 2 spring rolls, 3 pot-stickers and 4-fried wonton. Our entrées consisted of the Green curry w/shrimp and Pad Thai w/chicken. The table shared a beautiful presentation of their Ruan Thai Fried Rice w/shrimp, chicken, egg, green onions, raisins, pineapple and cashew nuts. The service is consistently good; the food is prepared well and artistically presented and provides a welcome break from the plethora of seafood restaurants that populate the island.
COST: $$ The lunch menu is a great bargain, the Chicken Pad Thai was only 249 Baht ($8.25) for lunch and 427 Baht ($13.95) for dinner
FOOD: All agreed that the flavor, service, & portions were good. Just relieved it wasn’t fried or came w/hush-puppies
SERVICE: The staff is friendly and has an excellent knowledge of the Thai dishes served - family owned
DÉCOR: The restaurant has a modern but traditional feel w/beautiful lighting to complement the artistic flair of the food
http://myruanthai.com/main.html
Salty Dog Café
Jake the Salty Dog
Well you have probably seen the T-shirts with the logo of the legendary retriever wearing the yellow sou’wester hat. You may even have one folded up in your chest-of-drawers. From his very first appearance on a few T-shirts that promoted his home, Jake has grown into a national fashion phenom. The Salty Dog Café is located in the South Beach Marina @ Sea Pines along with Jake’s Pizza, the Wreck of the Salty Dog restaurant, Land’s End Tavern and the Lost Parrot-Java and Smoothie Bar. The South Beach Marina has become a gathering spot for both locals and vacationers, where you can enjoy waterfront dining inside or a drink & lighter fare on the deck at the outdoor bar. The night echoes with the tropical sounds of live entertainment most every night of the high-season. We park our bikes and wait to be seated but ultimately give up and dine on ice cream, Piña Coladas and Fat Tire beer. We normally order their Low Country Crab Dip and She Crab Soup, one of the islands best. It’s a must to visit & enjoy a cold beer and the atmosphere… a trip to HH just isn’t complete without a visit to the restaurants & shops of South Beach… oh yeah, & a tee-shirt!
COST: $$ And it’s THE place to be after the sun goes down, until the clubs beckon
FOOD: Fine dining it ain’t, but the appetizers are good and I usually stick to the fish sandwiches or their Seafood Pot Pie
SERVICE: The young servers are so stressed at days end… it looks like finals-week back at USC
DÉCOR: It’s like having dinner @ The Pirates of the Caribbean - Magic Kingdom. Nautical theme: how original
The Crazy Crab
Harbour Town
The other popular commercialized area of the Sea Pines neighborhood is Harbour Town. The Crazy Crab is only a few paces from the Harbour Town Light House, as such, some diners make it a point to traipse around the shops and boutiques during the long wait for their table at this very popular restaurant. She-crab soup and New England-style clam chowder are prepared fresh daily, children’s menus are available and the desserts are a high point for chocoholics. We start with the Raspberry Daiquiris while perusing the menu and snacking on hush-puppies, which are some of the best on the island. We also try the New England Clam Chowder that is only, OK. We decide to stick with the Steamed Seafood Pot, which includes a ½ Maine lobster, shrimp, Snow-crab legs and oysters on the ½ shell. It is served with a baked potato and corn-on-the-cob. Good food, great location!
COST: $$$ We paid just $25.95 for our Steam Pot, which we thought was a bargain
FOOD: We stuck with the hush-puppies and the Steam Pot - not the islands freshest seafood but good
SERVICE: Our server was an elderly yankee lady, she wouldn’t have cracked a smile… if we tipped her with THE winning Lotto ticket
DÉCOR: The interior appears to have been salvaged from a sunken ship - needs updating
Catch 22 Restaurant
On our last night on the island, we decide to visit the restaurants of Orleans Plaza on New Orleans Street. We go to Catch 22 because we hear their oysters are some of HH’s best. Little did we know that they also had all you can eat Snow Crab legs ($29.95 - Sun thru Wed). We start with the Oysters on the ½ Shell and the Daufuskie Hushpuppies - w/shrimp & crab, served with honey butter. The oysters are plump & salty and the hushpuppies pack a punch (think, conch fritters). Next up is their Crab & Roasted Red Pepper Soup and the Pan-Seared Jumbo Scallops served w/shitake & goat cheese ravioli with sautéed spinach and a prosciutto & sherry cream sauce. The soup was delicate and chocked full of crab meat and the scallops were… well, I think scallops could be cooked on the hot HH sidewalk and still be delicious. These weren’t and were… if you followed my logic.
COST: $$$ At the higher-end of the scale for HH seafood
FOOD: Orders are cooked individually and the preparation is of higher quality - inventive menu w/seafood items galore and more
SERVICE: The restaurant is more intimate & quiet (a luxury in HH) and the service is more attentive
DÉCOR: Yes, it had a nautical theme but our section actually had art on the wall - who knew
Come for the amenities and stay because it’s fun. Bring the sticks, the rackets, the bikes, the kids and hit the links, the courts, the restaurants or just lie on the beach. This place is one of the most family-friendly vacation spots in the country.
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New York City, New York
Posted by Chalin' in New York City, New York, U.S. on March 13th, 2011
As we all know, New Yorkers are cocky and vocal about everything but finally there may be some actual truth behind all their bullshit. NYC IS an amazing city, especially in regards to eating. NYC possesses anything and everything edible. In fact, NYC may just top the list of best food cities in all the U.S. Go ahead Yankee, start chatting shit. Sure NYC has great museums, shopping and sweet parades, which is why Lonely Planet ranked it as the #1 city to visit in 2011. But judging by how many people I saw eating at TGI Fridays in Times Square, people are clearly missing out on NYC’s true culinary clout. So fuck-off MoMA, Bloomies and Charlie Brown and check out my - Intro To NYC fooditinerary:
Missed this from my restaurant table...
Let me preface this by stating that this is not the definitive list of the 20,000+ restaurants in NYC, but merely an amuse-bouché of what the city has to offer. In other words, don’t bitch. If I left off your favorite, let the community know - or write your own damn blog! I will be back with another NYC posting soon enough…
momofuku Noodle Bar: New York City (Asian Fusion)
Although momofuku Noodle Bar is known for their Fried Chicken Dinner, we should already know where to find the world’s best fried chicken, per my New Orleans posting. So, chicken is a definite no-go. In my humble - yet always accurate - opinion, Asian Fusion restaurants tend to be overpriced and generally not all that satisfying. Momofuku’s, however, offers several exceptional dishes including the Japanese inspired momofuku ramen so good, it’s named after the restaurant ($16 a bowl). This isn’t your 99¢, 47-count box of instant noodles that set you up for the ‘freshman fifteen’ and Type-2 Diabetes. Forget salty, foil-wrapped flavor packs. This ramen boasts long-simmered stock from chicken legs, pork bones and bacon. Wheat noodles not enough? How about some fatty pork belly and shredded pork shoulder, nourished with chopped scallions, snow peas, bamboo shoots and crunchy nori. Still not swayed, the chef artfully cracks a slow poached egg over it all… momo-fuk-u.
The Japanese slurp to compliment the chef, right?
Long day at the office making shitty Kia commercials? Need to take the edge off like a Korean businessman? Sip on a few Lychee Soju Slushies starting at $5.00 for a small - that being said, get the large - and witness your stress and vision fade away. I had one… should have had ten.
Very rare to see an empty chair, after Soju Slushies.
Also, heard the pork buns are some of the best in the city. Unfortunately, I didn’t give them a go - but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t.
PRICE: $$
FOOD: Detour
SERVICE: Betty Boop tattooed hipster… I got her number.
DÉCOR: Asian modern, lively ambiance with stellar tunes - think Radiohead.
momofuku Noodle Bar
Joe’s Shanghai: New York City (Chinese)
You know it’s authentic Chinese, when its operated by a guy named Joe. I couldn’t make it to Flushing, for the city’s best Dim Sum (or Yum Cha), so my date and I hit up Joe’s Shanghai in Chinatown. The name, Joe’s Shanghai is inextricably linked to their famous Soup Dumplings (ah so-sorry, so-sorry… soup inside da dumprin’) or Xiao Long Bao. The Soup Dumplings are renowned but you wouldn’t know it as they are not even listed on the menu, at least not as Soup Dumplings. Save yourself 17 exchanges with your impatient ‘New Yorkified,’ Asian waiter who is aggravated at you because he can’t speak English and simply order the “Steamed Pork Buns.” End rant.
This is still not a steamed pork bun...
After going Chris Tucker on the waiter, we get our “Steamed Pork Buns” - eight for only $4.65. The savory, slurp-worthy soup is enclosed in a soft and surprisingly thin dumpling. The pork is tender and well seasoned. But be careful, this soup is pork broth napalm. Do your mouth a favor and take notes: Nibble a small tear in the dumpling and drain the brown-liquid-death into your spoon. Let the liquid-less dumpling cool slightly. Then it is safe to eat, followed by the broth. If followed closely, these guidelines will allow you to savor these wonderful morsels without ‘Agent Oranging’ your taste buds. If not followed, take your stir-fried mouth to TGI Fridays.
I've been lookin' for your sweet and sour chicken-ass.
PRICE: $$
FOOD: Detour
SERVICE: Do you understand the words that are coming out of my mouf!?!
DÉCOR: The SOUP is IN the dumplings??
Joe’s Shanghai Chinatown (2 other NYC locations)
http://www.joeshanghairestaurants.com/
Lombardi’s Pizza: New York City (Italian, Pizza)
All right, already! Lets get into why we all ‘heart’ NYC so damn much with the spots that, not only give New York its character but also, its expanding waistline. Back in 1905, Gennaro Lombardi (the only Italian immigrant not in the mafia) opened America’s first pizzeria. Over 100 years later, Lombardi’s Pizza is still dishing out some of the country’s best pizza. Even the loosest pizza-slut goes cross-legged to hide their protruding pepperoni over this stuff.
We gave it a complete makeover in 1912.
My date and I ordered the $19.50, large Original Pizza. This eight slice “standard” pizza is made with fresh mozzarella, San Marzano tomato sauce and ‘confetti-ed’ with Romano and hand-torn Italian Basil. But I don’t settle for “standard.” You heard of the Food Itinerary blog? Yeah, well - I made that shit. Up the ante and calorie count, pile on double-cut Rosa Grande Pepperoni and Homemade Meatballs for an additional $5.00. I could paint pizza-porn fantasies with the toppings alone (could probably be an entire blog entry) but the brilliance behind this pizza is what’s underneath, the seemingly antithetical crust. The black, smoky-crisp bottom bolsters and compliments the delightfully soft, chewy-yeasty interior. This is quintessential and maybe the original NYC pizza. Best pie ever? “Maybe yes, maybe no, maybe fuck you.” But if you don’t mind a bit of a wait, you can experience one of the best NYC has to offer. FYI, I did share the large pie… she got one of eight slices.
Remember, just one piece. No, no - the smaller one...!
PRICE: $
FOOD: Destination
SERVICE: Seemed to have missed the rush, quick and efficient
DÉCOR: Nostalgic; worn-booths, checkered table tops, open kitchen and 8,232 photos of the boss/owner
Lombardi’s Pizza
http://www.firstpizza.com/home.html
Katz’s Delicatessen: New York City (Delicatessen)
I don’t’ know if Katz’s is more famous for Meg Ryan’s fake-orgasm scene or the hand carved pastrami, corned beef, roast beef and assorted Jewish deli staples served since 1888. As much as I like fake-orgasms, I am going to go with the latter. I ordered the made-fresh daily, Roast Beef - on rye, of course, with Swiss cheese and tomato for $16.05 (an additional $1.60 for the cheese and tomato)… not the famous Pastrami, I know. But the menu dares you to finish just one Roast Beef sandwich and as intimidating as that sounded, I decided I had better order the Potato Latkes (three in total $9.10) with sour cream and applesauce and make it an actual challenge.
Over here, already!
The tender prime Roast Beef sandwich was delicious, not to mention, stacked so high I could barely get my big mouth on it. Roast Beef was going everywhere as if I was weed-eating the bastard. The Potato Latkes were served hot and added a nice textural component. I preferred the sour cream to the applesauce, although it did offer a unique sweet alternative. After washing it all down with Dr. Brown’s Cream Soda, I realized Meg wasn’t faking it at all and Billy Crystal definitely had nothing to do with it.
Can I eat the sandwich, potato latkes and drink at the same time...
PRICE: $
FOOD: Destination
SERVICE: Skip being waited on. Go straight for the counter… or the line to the counter
DÉCOR: Living museum
Katz’s Delicatessen
Grimaldi’s Pizzeria: Brooklyn (Italian, Pizza)
Alright, so I am visiting a bunch of friends from the college years and they keep asking me, “What do you want to do, what do you want to see?” It’s cute because I am from Arkansas so, they assume I have never been to NYC (or could place it on a map) - I have been several times. To make matters worse, I show up with a full-on food itinerary not a list of sights to tick off. My friends think I’m mental. Let me tell you what is mental, living in Manhattan your entire life without ever going to Brooklyn. That is fucking mental - I make my lunch date walk the Brooklyn Bridge as punishment. If you do not visit Brooklyn, you truly are missing out on some outstanding eateries. One of those eateries just happens to be a placed called Grimaldi’s Pizza. Yeah - that Grimaldi’s.
Legendary door photo without a line...
The plan was to order pepperoni and meatballs, so we could go cage-match with Grimaldi’s vs. Lombardi’s - Fear Factor d-bag commentator and all. But, they only had pepperoni. No meatballs, community seating and they don’t accept credit cards - not the best start.
Oh, you didn't have to clean up the place...
The large pizza consumes our table, leaving little room for plates - good thing I don’t use them. The pie was a coal-fired, thin-crusted masterpiece with thick red tomato sauce and irregularly splattered mozzarella playing nice with fresh green basil. I am talking with my mouth full at this point… my date digging it of course. The pepperoni was miraculous - the salami circles curled upwards, slightly charred around the edge with just a bit of grease in each one. Acne has never been so worth it.
The pepperoni pizza is a precursor of what my face will look like.
PRICE: $
FOOD: Destination
SERVICE: Prepare for a long line or be famous like me
DÉCOR: They probably didn’t spruce the place up for Frank Sinatra
Grimaldi’s Pizza (2 other NY locations)
http://www.grimaldis.com/2/Index.htm
Le Bernardin: New York (French, Seafood)
Enough of scary, hipster-filled Brooklyn, lets get back to the cushy-life in Manhattan. And when I say “cushy,” one NYC restaurant above all others should come to mind, Le Bernardin. Yup, I said it - forgot your editor had class?
Class, Class, Class
Gourmet food - invented by the French and enjoyed by assholes the world over. It is expensive, delicious food combining price, scarcity and meticulous attention to detail. Remember, people who eat it are better than you. Today, THIS asshole is better than you… standard.
Le Bernardin is the gold standard of French seafood and one of America’s most influential restaurants. It is one of only nine restaurants in the U.S. to be awarded 3 Michelin-stars in 2011 and Le Bernardin has done so for six years in a row… it has also recently received the coveted approval of Food Itinerary.
Finally... the grown-up's table.
We begin with the Smoked Yellowfin Tuna “Prosciutto”, Japanese Pickled Vegetables and Crispy Kombu. Subtle, yet each bite sends the palate into sensory overload. Next, come the Baked Wild Striped Bass, Cashew-Jalapeño Purée, Pickled Cucumber and Chili Crab Consommé. Then Seared Yellowtail King Fish, Truffle Risotto and Spring Vegetables… each tasting better than the last. The desserts include the Black Truffle Emulsion & Dark Chocolate Cremeux and the Cocoa Pain de Genes with “Burnt Orange Meringue” served with Chicory Ice Cream. Had to shell out a bit extra to sample their Bacon Ice cream made with bits of bacon and bacon fat - cush life!
Smoked Yellowfin Tuna "Prosciutto", Japanese Pickled Vegetables and Crispy Kombu
Le Bernardin is a culinary dream world. Close your eyes, point to anything on the menu - something that may even sound terrible (none of it does, or is) - and it will leave you levitating above your table to marvel over the dish’s exquisite balance of colors, shapes and flavors. Le Bernardin is an NYC institution, a bastion of dependability and sureness in a dynamic industry - it must top the list of any NYC fooditinerary.
Told you this asshole was better than you - C.A.
PRICE: $$$$+
FOOD: Landmark
SERVICE: Just short of being fanned with palms and fed grapes by gorgeous women
DÉCOR: Wood-paneled room exudes glamour and class without extravagance
Le Bernardin
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Key West… come as you are
Posted by mla0100 in Key West, Florida, U.S. on February 24th, 2011
Key West Lighthouse
Painted Ladies
Key West Sunset
Life's a Beach
Key West is the consummate post-New Years get away, a place to unwind and rejuvenate. A couple of days in Key West, moving at a more leisurely-pace, is the perfect antidote to that frenetic New Years celebration. In a town that is perpetually on vacation, the preferred leisure activity in Key West is relaxing on the beach or poolside, riding bikes, strolling down palm-lined streets or sitting on the veranda enjoying the incessant sunny weather. But Key West is definitely a Tale of Two Cities!
Duval Crawl
Sloppy Joe's
When the sun begins to drop on the Southernmost City - Sunset Celebration goes into full swing in Mallory Square and the lights begin to shine on Duval Street. If you’re looking for a party… you’ll find it in Key West! Cayo Hueso (original Spanish name) has definitely earned the right to be called the “Habitat for Insanity” (i.e. a Caribbean-styled city devoted to - simple, indecent and somewhat affordable nightlife) with bars that stay open until the wee hours of the morning! One of the most popular activities for visitors & tourist is the “Duval Crawl”. For the uninitiated, this means trying to frequent as many Key West bars in one night as humanly possible. This very distinct dichotomy between day and night provides one with ample opportunity to rest and relax all day, while preparing for a night of revelry.
Joe's Stone Crab
Our fooditinerary begins immediately after hitting the tarmac in Miami as we cruise over to South Beach (SoBe) to visit the mythical Joe’s Stone Crab. It was designated a historical landmark in 1975, which has led to a national obsession and recognition as The gastronomic destination in Miami’s SoBe district. Joe’s is only open during stone crab season, which began on Oct. 19th this past year and will close sometime this summer - TBA. We arrive at exactly 5:00 pm in an attempt to circumvent the notoriously long lines (1-2 hrs) and are seated almost immediately. I start with one of the House Favorites - Stuffy’s Rhode Island Baked Quahog Clams and the Seafood Bisque and my dining companion has the Cioppino (San Franciscan fish stew). The clams were delicious, the bisque was too thick and the Cioppino (new menu item) was a disaster! We also ordered the fried oysters and fried zucchini… most items were prepared well and served in ginormous portions yet, were surprisingly affordable.
4 - Jumbo Crab Claws
But we came for the Stone Crabs (in Florida = the claw only, by law) and Joe’s claws enjoy a cult following and justify the wait. The claws come pre-pounded, so they’re expertly cracked and shell fragments can be easily discarded… exposing the succulent claw meat. The texture is firm yet flaky and has a distinctively sweet flavor, which pairs well with Joe’s creamy mustard sauce or clarified butter. The keys to the kingdom do not come cheap - an order of 4 jumbo black-tipped claws (jumbo > 6 ounces) goes for $71.95 (Market price). But don’t take my word for it, last season (their 97th) Joe’s sold over 550,491 pounds of their signature stone crab claws. You do the math - OK, rounded off it’s $26.5 million (just for the crab claws). The wait can be intolerable; thank goodness there is also a Joe’s Take-Away.
PRICE: $$$$ The pricey stone crabs obviously subsidizes the lower-priced items on the rest of the menu
FOOD: The food seemed to be prepared well but some dishes were inconsistent. Their stone crabs were as good as advertised and their signature sides were quite substantial
SERVICE: Rumor has it that the maître d‘ at Joe’s earns 6 figures (open ≈ 9 months) due to the $40 preferred seating tips… $20 tips are reportedly, loudly rebuffed… bienvenido a Miami
DÉCOR: Spanish Colonial Revival w/dark wood accents and furniture. High ceilings, black & white tiled floors, white tablecloths and servers in tuxedos. Restaurant easily holds 500 patrons
Joe’s Stone Crab
Hotel Room
La Te Da Restaurant
We are staying at an incredible Key West hotel on the quieter end of Duval Street; so an easy choice for Brunch is the Restaurant La Te Da @ Key West, located in the hip Duval Street hotel of the same name. This restaurant specializes in traditional cuisine served alfresco (poolside) in their courtyard; located in the former residence of the poet, patriot and martyr of Cuban Independence - José Martí. “The All American” - 3 fresh Eggs (scrambled) with Home Fries, Apple wood Smoked Bacon and Toast served with fresh orange marmalade & strawberry preserves are cooked well and served hot. And the “Eggs Baltimore” - Poached Eggs on Lump Crab Cakes and English Muffins topped with Hollandaise are outstanding. And this is the perfect time of year for the sweetest, fresh-squeezed Florida orange juice. We were so impressed with Breakfast/Brunch that we came here (post hangover) to dine again, the ‘morning after’. We couldn’t even look at solid food, so we opted for the “Berries & Fruit Cocktail” - a Parfait of Tropical Fruits and Berries served in a Martini glass topped with Vanilla Yogurt and granola. Just the right amount of calories, so that we could go comatose in a beach chair.
PRICE: $$ Great price for a quality brunch
FOOD: European styled brunch - Imported and domestic Cheeses w/Croissants & French Baguette, seasonal Tropical Fruits, Omelets, Benedicts & Brunch cocktails @ the Terrace Bar
SERVICE: Relaxed, elegant island-style
DÉCOR: Dining in a casual, open-air atmosphere… right on Duval St
La Te Da Restaurant @ Key West
http://www.lateda.com/restaurant.html
Southernmost Beach & Café
Southernmost Beach
Yeah, you can take the Conch Tour Train to see all of the cheesy sights on the island or you can chillax and vegetate on South Beach… we chose the latter. Oceanside on the Atlantic-end of Duval, it’s a beach location like no other (b/c we can walk to our room) and is the most desirable setting in Key West. So, we reside here daily for the duration… to work on our ‘Hamilton’. Behind us, lies the Southernmost Beach Café, so refreshments are about 20 steps away. Better yet, Juan (the beach attendant) comes around periodically and brings popsicles and frozen pineapple. The only danger here, in this idyllic setting, is the dreaded ‘Irish suntan’. FI Tip: For a few extra bucks, Juan will alert you when you are medium-rare! Sandwiches, wraps, burgers, salads, desserts and sorbets are served from 8:00 am until the sun goes down and the chaos resumes!
Southernmost Beach Café
http://www.southernmostresorts.com/
Dining alfresco
The Elusive Hogfish
For some of us, visiting the Keys isn’t about just taking a simple vacation. It’s also a quest to find the perfect fish sandwich, served in an authentic Keys restaurant on the waterfront. After conferring with the locals, the consensus opinion is the Hogfish Bar & Grill (near H₂0) and B.O.’s Fish Wagon (landlocked). The Hogfish Bar & Grill is located on Stock Island (1st Island North) in the Safe Harbor Marina… as any shrimper can tell you (if, you speak Vietnamese). It is probably easier to find by boat (hint: it is 20° 37′ N - 81° 36′ W) but with the help of our GPS we finally locate it. They have a varied menu with Baja Fish Tacos and a Lobster BLT, but the “World Famous Killer Hogfish Sandwich“ is what you have to try - a mild, flaky and delicate, white-fleshed fish served on fresh Cuban bread. Call ahead for availability, if available (Hogfish must be speared & are seasonal) it is delivered twice daily so, it is always fresh. If you can save room, try the homemade tropical guava bread pudding doused with piña colada sauce - crazy good.
PRICE: $$ Gladly paid the price for the elusive Hogfish
FOOD: Experience the way the Keys used to be and go where the locals go for good food. Try the Hogfish if available or the “pinks” the local shrimp
SERVICE: Relaxed and friendly… everyone here is on island time
DÉCOR: Sit on the docks and watch, as your lunch is offloaded from the boats
Hogfish Bar and Grill
B.O.'s Fish Wagon?
Shipwreck Inspired
Others, including his friend Jimmy Buffett, say Buddy Owen has the perfect sandwich at his open air shanty-shack. B.O.’s Fish Wagon serves up a primo cracked-conch sandwich - perfectly fried strips of conch served between Cuban bread… it’s one, sick-sandwich. But it’s a tough call between that and the “Square Grouper Seawich”. For the uninformed, a “square-grouper” is a bale of ganja that was thrown overboard during a DEA chase. But the sandwich is dope, as well - fried or grilled - fresh caught grouper, w/Key Lime mayo, lettuce, tomato & onions in portions that will cure your munchies. Hand-cut fries, conch fritters & fresh-squeezed Key Limeade will leave you buzzing, uh… full.
PRICE: $$ Cheaper before B.O. became a pseudo-celebrity
FOOD: Cracked-conch and “square-grouper” sandwiches (when available) are insane
SERVICE: Stand in line to order while drinking Key Limeade & pray a table comes available
DÉCOR: Cheech & Chong meets Sanford & Son. After a hurricane, B.O.’s just picks up the pieces and nails it back together
B.O.’s Fish Wagon
http://www.bosfishwagon.com/store/
Blue Heaven Entrance
BH Music Stage
Blue Heaven is a kitschy Key West eatery located in Bahama Village and is worth a stop for any Key West visitor (many locals are regulars here). The historical setting once served as a boxing ring (where Hemingway refereed), a bordello, a cock-fighting venue and was even mentioned in a Jimmy Buffett song, “Blue Heaven Rendezvous.” Although breakfast is their main draw, we have dinner (alfresco) on this outing. To say the environment here is causal would be an understatement, even by Key West standards. There is a ping-pong table, a rooster graveyard, an on-site water tower, the ubiquitous Key West chickens, cats eating table scraps and birds roost in the trees. We both order the Sautéed Yellowtail Snapper with Citrus Beurre Blanc Sauce - angel hair pasta, asparagus, fresh corn and cornbread. I was impressed with the fish and the overall quality of the dish… pleasantly surprised. We finish with their ethereal Key Lime pie and several of their signature cocktails.
PRICE: $$$ Hard to accurately estimate the cost, as we were buying rounds for the girls next to us - who insisted we attend a Drag Cabaret show with them on Duval… hilarious
FOOD: Fine dining in a casual setting
SERVICE: Our waiter was over-the-top friendly, helpful & fun - we partied, “Larger than Big”!!
DÉCOR: “If these walls could talk, I don’t know what they’d say, they’ve seen some accidental masquerades at the Blue Heaven rendezvous… ” - Jimmy Buffet
Blue Heaven
Southernmost Bouy
Key West Sunset
Fait accompli - mission accomplished - feeling rested and recuperated; we head back to Miami to catch our plane but our time in Key West was well spent! Too many good restaurants to list but we enjoyed every minute of our visit to the Southernmost City. Included were visits to Sloppy Joe’s for their potent Sloppy-Ritas, home-made coconut ice cream @ Flamingo Crossing, Cuban cigars and Mojitos @ El Meson de Pepe’s, Key Lime Pie on a Stick/dipped in Chocolate from Kermit’s Key West Key Lime Shoppe… Good Times.
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New Years 2011, Venetian-style!
Posted by jenni in Venice, Italy on February 2nd, 2011
Ah, Venice, Italy – enchanting, romantic, captivating, and…frustrating? Trying (aimlessly) to find my hotel the first day in Venice, a youngish British man with his girlfriend passed by me on the street and muttered: “…this is more like ‘The Frustrating City.’” I giggled to myself - they were lost like the rest of us. Although “The Mysterious City” is perhaps more fitting for the picturesque cobble stone streets, there is no denying that Venice is a bit (read: VERY) confusing.
In my extensive travels, I have never found a city that is harder to navigate. In Venice, not only are you likely to get lost searching for the restaurant your hotel recommended, but without such recommendation, you will certainly be off-course in a sea of cafés and restaurants, many of which range from mediocre to clichéd to offensively bad. And you might think a map helps – but without corresponding street signs or a clear understanding of which bridge is which, a map in Venice is merely a way of shouting to all the locals, “Hey, I’m a tourist!” and to fellow tourists, “Hey, I’m lost too!”
Can you be any more obvious?
As I have said many times before, “when in doubt, ask the locals!” Little did I know that Venice is the exception to this rule; although knowing their way around town, the Venetians themselves are at a loss for which street is which. (New rule for Venice: Don’t ask the locals, just follow them). In an effort to avoid the horrendous lunches and dinner disasters that come from being lost in an unfamiliar city, I established a few guidelines:
1) Don’t eat in the establishments that have pictures of the food on the menu. (Follow this principle with regard to food displayed in the front window – this is not uncommon in Venice).
2) If there is a man prostituting the restaurant out to everyone that walks by, you can be sure that inside you will be seated with all your fellow tourists, and the food will be expensive and highly forgettable. Look for the places that don’t need to pay someone to advertise.
3) If it is on a main road (by the Grand Canal for example), it is risky. Go for restaurants and cafés located on the side-streets.
4) Look for where the locals are eating – you don’t necessarily have to stalk the locals around town, but just peek in to see what kind of people are eating at the establishment in question.
5) Finally, just because Venice is known for the decadent seafood doesn’t mean that ordering seafood at any restaurant is a safe bet.
(Note: Many of these principles can be followed when lost in various other cities around the world).
There are, indeed, great restaurants in Venice; the only trouble is, again, finding them.
In an attempt to not go broke via overcooked pasta in an already notoriously expensive city, I did my research to find the best the Venetians had to offer. Unfortunately many of my plans – including trying the infamous moleche (soft-shelled crab, and apparently not in-season during the winter months) - were spoiled due to the offseason and the holidays. Nevertheless, I triumphed through the disaster of frozen and microwaved tiramisu, and experienced some culinary greatness.
Breakfast
Don’t have your hopes too high for breakfast – Venetians are a simple people in the mornings: espresso and (maybe) a pastry. Be more inventive and go early in the morning to the fruit and vegetable market at Rialto (where they sell everything from fish and produce, to leather bags, silk ties, and the famous and ubiquitous Murano glass). At the Rialto market, I sampled the kaki fruit (aka persimmon or “sharon fruit”), giant green grapes, lovely dark cherries, and kumquats (which, in retrospect, I do not recommend as these become pretty messy when trying to peel them). This breakfast of fresh fruit was cheaper than what I would’ve paid for in a restaurant, infinitely better than what most hotels provide, and left me satisfied, yet ready for the long (and fantastic) lunch to follow. On the following morning, the other couple we were with managed to find a grocery store (this is a feat in itself), and bought various kinds of Italian sausage, eggs, fresh bread, and cheese. In a shared apartment complete with a kitchen (this is really the way to go when considering accommodation in Venice), we ate a deliciously authentic and cozy breakfast, with unlimited fresh espresso!
PRICE: €
FOOD: Fresh and lots to choose from!
SERVICE: well, it is a market - don’t expect too much.
DECOR: …outdoorsy.
Lunch
After searching quite tenaciously for the infamous Trattoria Alla Madonna, we arrived to find the front door and windows boarded up. My culinary heart was broken when I read that the trattoria was on vacation until after the New Year. I gave up for a moment, letting my hunger and disappointment get the better of me, only to be encouraged by my boyfriend that all hope was indeed not lost. We would - *gasp* - just have to “wing it.” And I have never been so happy that we did. Keeping with guideline #3 above, we decided to explore the streets behind the Riva del Vin. We came upon one potential lunch venue, but backed out the moment we saw an Asian couple running the joint (Now, for the record, I am not racist, but rather a firm believer in stereotypes – particularly when dining out. I would avoid eating sushi made by Mexicans in Japan the same way I would avoid a Yankee rolling my burrito in El Paso. And while there are exceptions to every rule, stereotypes are stereotypes for a reason).
Finally, we found the Trattoria Antico Pizzo, a cute little eatery carved in the side of yet another cobble stoned street. We would have passed it had it not been for the tacky Christmas lights assaulting the entrance of the restaurant. Inside, we were welcomed warmly to an empty dining room. We sat down and were handed menus and a pad of paper with the day’s specials scribbled (illegibly) in pen – hmmm, authentic or lazy? I began to worry. From what I could make out in the Italian hieroglyphics, the fish of the day was shrimp, and the dish of the day was tagliatelle with the fish of the day. It seemed like the right thing to do. And it was. To my delight, the restaurant filled up with Venetians as I swirled strings of creamy heaven around my fork. After sampling my boyfriend’s tuna steak and polenta, as well as the seafood pasta (including fresh muscles, shrimp, fish, and scallops) of our dining companions, it was quite clear that we had struck culinary gold (or at least silver). The décor may be deceivingly wrong, but the food is clearly right.
Shrimp tagliatelle
PRICE: €€ (by Venetian standards)
FOOD: Made fresh, flavorful, best pasta I had in Venice
SERVICE: Good, until the restaurant filled up, then it was not-so-good.
DECOR: tacky on the outside, not memorable on the inside
Trattoria Alla Modanna
Sestiere San Polo, 594
30125 Venice, Italy
Phone: +35 (041) 5223824
Trattoria Antico Pizzo
SESTIERE SAN POLO, 814,
30125 Venice, Italy
Phone: +39 (041) 5231575
More lunch (or dinner…or snack!)
I am proud to say that I discovered the best pizza in all of Venice. Many a guidebook will suggest that you set aside time for wandering off, and doing so, once again, paid off. I wasn’t even hungry at the time – but in seeing the giant slices of distinctly authentic pizza coming out of Pizzeria Sansovino, I suddenly realized that hunger was irrelevant, and I would regret not partaking in a traditional slice of heaven. I decided to wait for the fresh pepperoni pie that was just entering the pizza oven – 10 minutes later I asked myself, “Has anything ever been so worth the wait?” I think not. It is a shame that many probably miss this little place, but look for it if you are walking from St. Marks to Campo S. Maurizio. This pizza-only shop has no seating availabilities – so take a piece with you on your way to getting lost again. Eat as you go – don’t worry, you are not the only one!
Fresh out of the pizza oven
PRICE: € (it’s a piece of pizza)
FOOD: A-M-A-Z-I-N-G
SERVICE: Friendly
DECOR: Not much to see, grab your pizza and go
Other tempting suggestions:
Pizza al Volo – another winner. You cannot go wrong here.
Pizzeria Sansovino
San Marco 2628
Pizza al Volo
Campo Santa Margherita, 2944
30123 Venice, Italy
Phone: +39 (041) 5225430
Dinner
Unfortunately for us, our dinner excursions were not everything we had hoped for. It really does help to have a plan in Venice, not least because it is hard enough to find the recommendation you were given. As we were with a larger group on this trip, we had less control over where to indulge in our gastronomic fantasies. This was especially the case on New Years Eve – a particularly difficult evening to find decent cuisine. On New Years Eve in Venice, you are absolutely required to make a reservation at the first-class establishments. As for the other mainstream tourist traps, if you can find a table, there is a general minimum courses/price per patron rule. And unfortunately for us, with no prior reservation, we got caught (suckered in to) a place not even worth mentioning here by name.
However, our last night in Venice (and the first evening of 2011), we went out with a bang thanks to al Paradiso Ristorante. Located on Calle Paradiso, this restaurant stands alone – although close to tourist traps along the canal, it is hidden a bit on one of the side streets. The décor is elegant, cozy, and very romantic. The attention provided by the wait staff was indicative of the food that would present itself, and in our opinion, well worth the slightly higher price. I started with the seabass carpaccio, accompanied by fennel and a light olive oil, orange zest, and white balsamic dressing. The black spaghetti with squid ink was equally decadent, as was the tagliateli with crab – a dish I only wish had been bigger! If in doubt, I highly recommend letting Georgio and the staff choose for you – they are friendly, honest, and know exactly how to steer you in the right direction (with the wine selection as well). We finished the evening with a light panna cotta, topped with a compote of mixed berries. And just when I thought the meal was over, it turns out that the restaurant serves small homemade mystery biscuits (I say “mystery” because I’ve never tried anything like them before) at the end of the meal - so good, I lost count of how many I ate!
A brilliant way to finish the evening
PRICE: €€€
FOOD: Very good - not the best, but very good.
SERVICE: Excellent, great with recommendations!
DECOR: Cozy, romantic, think: flowers, white table clothes, tea lights.
Al Paradiso Ristorante
Calle del Paradiso
San Polo 767, Venice
Telephone: +39 (041) 5234910
Dessert (or any time of day!)
Who goes to Italy and doesn’t try the gelato? Even the very lactose-intolerant person me cannot resist! Our favorite was a gelateria by the name of SoSu, near the Rialto Bridge. Once you find, the most difficult decision for you will not be two or three scoops (three, obviously), but rather which flavors to choose. As such, we did what any rational couple would do and decided to have a round II sometime the next day. Try the biscuit (my personal favorite) and…actually, it is pointless to make flavor recommendations, I’m not sure it is possible to go very wrong here (except for maybe the licorice flavor – you really have to be a big fan to love it in ice cream form).
PRICE: € €
FOOD: yummy!
SERVICE: Good
DECOR: Charming - like an Italian gelato shop should be.
Other tempting suggestions:
La Boutique de Gelato
Salizzada S. Lio 5727
Castello
Alaska
Calle Larga dei Bari, 1159
Santa Croce
Gelateria II Doge
Campo di Santa Margherita
SuSoooo good
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San Diego, California
Posted by Chalin' in San Diego, California, U.S. on January 20th, 2011
I’m in San Diego with only one thing in mind - fish tacos. And not the pink ones this time, the 1,000 year old, simplistic, culinary delight that keep surfers surfing and Manuel Uribe fit.
... it goes straight to my three thighs.
Nestled on the coast less than 20 miles from postcard-esque Tijuana, San Diego is the epicenter of Mexican drug trafficking and incredible “comida de Mexicana”. I opted to avoid decapitation and instead ate my way through the city’s best fish/seafood tacos. You either want to know where to get the best tacos or you don’t…
Well, I didn't see eight-balls on the menu but sure me and the Mrs. would love to try one!
South Beach Bar & Grill: San Diego (Seafood/Pub Fare)
South Beach Bar & Grill offers a Mini Taco Platter appetizer, giving one a sampling of Mahi-Mahi, Wahoo, Grilled Shrimp, Calamari & Baja tacos for only $10.95, barring tax and tip… for a flirtatious (yet forgetful) waitress. Although touted as the world’s best, these tacos are pretty standard. The seafood is fresh - being 30 feet from the Pacific - but I felt like I had been waterboarded with Ranch Dressing after eating the first couple of tacos. Fortunately, there are several better options.
PRICE: ¢
FOOD: Pass
SERVICE: Flirtatious waitress: hot tits, cold food
DÉCOR: Dark Bar, lit by TVs airing S.D. Chargers’ losses
South Beach Bar & Grill
Mamá Testa Taqueria: San Diego (Mexican)
So you probably saw Bobby Flay eating Mamá Testa’s fish tacos on The Food Network. Flay has a few restaurants (Mesa Grill, Bar Americain, etc), is an Iron Chef but could not duplicate these tacos - so they must be great.
I don't know whether to order food from it or hit it with a stick and hope candy comes out?
I had the Mividita Tacos, lightly fried catfish with coleslaw and queso fresco piled in a crunchy shell. Yet again, the fish tacos are pretty standard, easily outmatched by several places in the area. Mamá Testa does have other (and probably better) tacos including their homemade, Chorizo taco. And don’t forget the all-you-can-muster Salsa Bar, boasting 10-12 selections… including my favorite, “Hepatitis-A-Habanero”.
Are you ready for a LETdown!?
PRICE: ¢
FOOD: If close
SERVICE: Bilingual
DÉCOR: It’s as if a piñata came to life and was hired as the designer
Mamá Testa Taqueria
http://www.mamatestataqueria.com/
Cantina Mayahuel: San Diego (Mexican)
It may or may not be the margarita, with fresh squeezed lime, agave nectar and a splash of Royal mountaine (whatever the hell that is), talking but Cantina Mayahuel’s Mahi-Mahi tacos made an impression.
I was eating while taking this shot.
Grilled with pineapple juice and topped with a cabbage/carrot/cilantro medley, tropical salsa, ancho mayo, crema mexicana and a dash of hot sauce - these fish tacos are more expensive than their counterparts ($4.50) but are roughly the size of Gabriel Iglesias’ head.
I'm not fat...or funny.
PRICE: ¢
FOOD: Detour
SERVICE: Well versed in the wonderful world of tequila
DÉCOR: Medieval-esque bar, lovely patio
Cantina Mayahuel
El Zarape: San Diego (Mexican)
So a friend recommended we take a cool evening bike-ride to El Zarape, after discovering they served excellent 99¢ batter-fried, fish tacos. It made total sense on the way there… not so much on the ride home. I do not recommend puking in someone else’s, bike-basket.
My kind of dollar menu.
This small, crammed local-favorite dishes out all the Mexican delights. But don’t miss the Shrimp ($3.25) and Lobster ($3.99) tacos topped with, eat-by-itself-with-a-spoon, creamy green salsa from the salsa bar. Seating is limited so, be sure and hawk the elderly, disabled and pregnant… to make them finish their meals quickly. Open late and serving cold draft beer, El Zarape is also known as “Eden”.
PRICE: ¢
FOOD: Detour
SERVICE: Order at counter, while friend stares down seated patrons who should leave
DÉCOR: Cramped, some say lively
El Zarape
Mariscos German Taco Truck (Pronounced “HAIR-mahn”): San Diego (Mexican)
This is it, the unequivocal best tacos in San Diego, according to the un-unequivocal authority of tacos in San Diego. Yes, it is a truck. Yes, it sits on a plot of dirt in front of a strip mall with signs in Spanish you can’t quite comprehend – including the menu. Yes, armed drug-runners eat here. Yes, receiving the correct order rests solely on your proficiency in the Spanish language. Yes, it is undeniably worth it.
Yes, that is a gang member... or a Raiders fan.
I am unsure of where to begin. The grilled marinated shrimp and veggie taco… the simple, yet flawless, lightly fried-fish taco? Or the densely smoked-fish taco, where rich flakes of smoked marlin share a corn tortilla bed with char-grilled vegetables? Perhaps it’s the free cup of seafood soup, infused with a red chili flavor that accompanies every order? Maybe it was the salsa or the tangy marinated onions I found in the cooler bin, that added yet another layer of flavor and an element of complexity to the tacos? The epic portions and affordable prices? Can I stop now? You should be out hunting this truck like Cheney hunts face!
Expect to stand or sit at plastic folding tables more brittle than Joan Rivers’ face or eat off the hood of your car – an idyllic setting for anniversaries, February fourteenths or spouses’ Birthdays.
... after being denied another facelift.
PRICE: ¢
FOOD: Landmark
SERVICE: Solamente en Español
DÉCOR: New truck smell
Marisco’s German Taco Truck
3504 University Ave
San Diego, CA 92104
Las Cuatro Milpas: San Diego (Mexican)
“We haaaave to go to Las Cuatro Milpas for their rice and beans while you are here,” a friend screams at me as she recalls one of her favorites. I was about as excited to eat rice and beans, as you are excited to actually keep reading this post.
After a “short” wait in the invariable line lingering down the sidewalk, Las Cuatro Milpas delivered. This is real-lard Mexican cooking, simple and authentic. It’s as if, you have been transported to a Mexican barrio (poverty and crime included) to enjoy a no frills lunch in a soup kitchen that, only the neighborhood families (and every other citizen in San Diego), know about.
Do know, they have a very limited menu. Now, there are two ways to approach this:
1) Complain and moan… like most people do.
2) Realize, they are specialists that have PERFECTED a unique assortment of dishes that have had San Diegans waiting for hours in a shitty neighborhood for over 75 years.
I chose to embrace the limited menu by ordering just, about all of it enough to feed an entire landscaping crew. The spicy chorizo beans and rice ($3.75), served with the ‘back-of-the-restaurant-hand-made tortillas‘ ($2.75), are from another planet. The tortillas are warm and chewy… the perfect accompaniment to the chorizo beans and rice. Warning: after eating, you may never enjoy beans and rice for as long as you live, or as short as you live, after consuming an unparalleled amount of pork fat (used in approximately 100% of the menu). Do yourself a favor and also try the delicious pork tamales ($1.50) and the rolled tacos ($1.50) stuffed with tender, flavorful pork and fried in front of you.
It can fit into one stomach.
FI Tip: This place cooks a days worth of food and when it’s gone, it’s gone. Plan on having lunch at 10:00am and bring cash, “we don’t take to your plastic ‘round here.”
You are welcome. – C.A.
PRICE: ¢
FOOD: Destination
SERVICE: Order quickly at counter or be mauled by the mob behind you
DÉCOR: Pork lard stucco
Las Cuatro Milpas
1875 Logan Ave.
San Diego, CA 92113
619.234.4460
